Ferdinand Berthoud's New Watch Review

Ferdinand Berthoud's New Watch Review

Ferdinand Berthoud's New Watch Review

The current Ferdinand Berthoud needed 

To make its debut having a watch celebrating chronometry and precision watchmaking. Caused by 3 years of R&D, its calibre Facebook-T.FC is really exceptional.

Ferdinand Berthoud's New Watch Review

The movement comprises greater than 1,120 parts (including over 790 for that Fusée-and-chain system). Its pillar-type architecture, a nod towards the marine chronometers built by Berthoud, is really spectacular, with some form of sacred feeling. Within this temple-like construction, the bridges are guaranteed towards the primary-plate with titanium support beams, rather of getting home plate and bridges screwed tightly along with hollows to aid the mechanical elements.

Constant pressure is really a ultimate goal in watchmaking and chronometry. The waning driving pressure sent to the controlling organ from the watch affects the actual way it performs within the whole power reserve. The time of oscillation is impacted by the variation from the driving pressure delivered through the barrel. This brought watchmakers to create mechanisms to pay for that variations in torque from the mainspring.

A fusée includes a cone-formed lever, associated with a series coiled round the barrel. The fusée includes a spiral thread to get the chain. Because of the growing circumference from the thread, the diminishing pressure from the mainspring is compensated (just like the gearing of the bicycle). Because the mainspring unwinds, the chain rolls around the barrel and from the fusée. The growing leverage from the fusée compensates for that waning torque from the barrel.

Fusée and chain mechanism are complex to fabricate and hard to regulate. The Ferdinand Berthoud 28 cm chain comprises no under 474 links, all hands put together with 300 small pins. Its suspended construction (it's guaranteed towards the primary-plate only) is extremely original.

Ferdinand Berthoud's New Watch Review

The movement is controlled with a one-minute tourbillon

Another device to enhance isochronism hence chronometry, counteracting the negative aftereffect of gravity in route watches keep time. The big tourbillon (16.55 mm for that titanium cage, 12mm for that aerodynamically-formed variable inertia balance wheel) operates at 3 Hz. The hairspring includes a Phillips terminal curve.

It provides a direct-drive second. Most frequently, the main one-minute rotation from the tourbillon can be used to hold a little-second. The wheel directly attached to the tourbillon carriage and driving the lengthy central second’s hands is seen via a cut-in the dial. It's similar to marine chronometers and enhances legibility. The ability reserve indication is dependant on a cone-formed gauge. A cone rises and lower in line with the barrel. A ruby feeler-spindle slides on its surface and drives the dial side indicator.

The decoration from the movement is impressive. To make sure a perfect finish, the brand’s craftsmen check the work they do under an x10 magnifier! Inspired by Berthoud’s work, the slim, lengthy spokes from the wheel are meticulously polished. The bridges are nicely satin-finished and bevelled with straight-grained flanks. Home plate and bridges have been in maillechort. A few of the jewels are positioned in finely polished chatons.

The Ferdinand Berthoud FB1 situation is elaborate by having an octagonal in shape shape along with a large fluted crown. 44mm across, it's now fashioned from the noblest of metals, platinum. It's inspired by marine chronometers as well as their gimbal suspension. Two angular brancards are screwed towards the situation middle and hugging a round round container. 4 lateral portholes provide interesting perspectives around the movement. The domed azure very is definitely great looking, supplying a awesome distortion effect whenever you notice in an position. Turn the keep an eye on along with a azure exhibition caseback provides you with a front-row look at the wonderful hands-wound calibre using its tourbillon and constant pressure mechanism.

The finishing is top-notch with perfect surfaces

The person special edition number is engraved around the lateral decorative element. Relevant using the gold editions, the maillechort dial is satin-brushed. It's crafted via a delicate process: just one gesture is conducted to clean the dial which requires deft hands. The hrs and minutes counter is black lacquered. The recessed counter at 9 o’clock shows the ability reserve (haut is perfect for high, bas is perfect for low). It's combined with dagger-formed hrs and minutes hands along with a slim central sweep seconds hands with a stylish round counterweight.

Finishing the appearance is really a magnificent alligator strap. Not too we'd expect anything less in the brand. It's double-sided alligator leather, hands-stitched with folded-edges. The security folding buckle is constructed from platinum. It's superbly carried out with polished surfaces and perlage. It provides a comfort-enhancing extension system that's adjustable inside a couple of seconds.